Hack, did you say Hack?Marine from the Instagram account @marine_sans takes over the blog. Our very first sewing pattern, LE Sweat, goes through the minimalist style checkpoint that Marine loves so much.The topstitching details make all the difference!
THE HACK TO SEW ALL YEAR ROUND
The Hack involves structuring LE Sweatwith a play of topstitching. The sweatshirt is one of Marine's wardrobe essentials. Slightly loose and comfortable, it aims to be modern for everyday life.
GUEST OF THE MONTH
Our accomplice
We've handed the pen to Marine, who introduces herself in a few words. A philosophy we share: LESS IS MORE.
"Hello, I'm Marine! Creative and versatile, I appreciate the elegant simplicity of the 'less is more' philosophy. My goal is to sew myself a timeless, minimalist wardrobe, while maintaining an undeniable touch of chic."
WHAT MAKES THE SWEATSHIRT SO COOL?
From 34 to 46 2 versions included.
A sewing pattern with total comfort! We declare it to be as essential and stylish as LE Hoodie.
Marine is 1.67 meters tall and sewed this hack in size 36 for an oversized look. The sweatshirt is one of my wardrobe essentials. It's versatile and I can wear it in a sportswear style, for lounging, or even dress it up by pairing it with boots, a blazer or a shirt.
SUPPLIES
- 1.35 meters of fabric (140 cm width) - 0.40 m of ribbing - Matching sewing thread - Optional bias tape: 1 m
FABRIC TIPS
Our sweatshirt and jersey fabrics offer comfort as soft as a cozy blanket. For a bolder approach, any slightly structured woven fabrics work well to give the sweatshirt a fresh twist from its original look.
HER FAVORITE FABRIC
The Leony Midnight sweatshirt fabric was an obvious choice: it fits perfectly within my wardrobe’s color palette, and its motif turns it into a true statement piece.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE
Hack Difficulty Level: Advanced beginner!
To sew this version, you’ll need to modify pattern piece 1 and optionally add a neckline band. The assembly is straightforward and easy to execute. Get ready to sew precise, straight lines and enjoy the stunning effect of these beautiful topstitches!
MODIFICATION
/ 1 /
THE FRONT (piece n°1)
Cut the front into three sections as shown in the illustration. Use the back piece as a guide to position the raglan cut on the front, making sure to start from the notch under the armhole.
Add 1 cm seam allowances. Check that the lengths of the different parts match up. I started with the longest part of the sleeve and added 2 cm in order to have long sleeves.
You can skip the waist adjustment for a looser fit.
/ 2 /
OPTIONNAL NECKLINE BAND
Use your leftover ribbing for the neckline by slightly trimming the front and reducing the neckline width as shown. Using a measuring tape, measure the total length of the neckline, subtracting the seam allowances.
To determine the length of the neckline band, multiply this result by 0.8 and add 2 cm for seam allowances.
A width of 7 cm will give you a final neckline width of 2.5 cm.
SEWING
For ultimate satisfaction, Marine advises preparing a test sample to perfect your double topstitching technique. Once your settings are ready, assemble the different parts of the sweatshirt by repeating these steps, finishing with the side seams of the body and the sleeves. Let’s get started!
/ 1 /
ASSEMBLY
With wrong sides together, stitch at 1 cm, then overlock the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances first, then press the seam to one side. Pressing in two stages will give you a cleaner topstitch.
/ 1.1 /
TOPSTITCHING
Time to bring out your keen eyes and precision! Topstitch 1 mm from the edge, then again approximately 6 mm from the edge. Avoid pulling on the fabric, adjust the stitch length beforehand to prevent puckering. It’s best to use a walking foot for this. Press one last time and admire the result
Avez-vous attrapé la surpiqûre mania ? Bravo à vous ! Did you enjoy the magic of topstitching? Congratulations! We hope you enjoyed this visual tutorial and that the topstitching technique will be useful for your future projects.
A thousand thanks to Marine, who you can find on Instagram @Marine_Sans.
Atelier Brunettes Team’s advice: Trust yourself, if in doubt, we're here for you! Send us a DM on Instagram @atelierbrunette.
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