GUEST OF THE MONTH
We love her minimalist aesthetic and we succumb to her multiple talents from styling her wardrobe, to her passion for indulgence. We present to you Céline from @phibertine on Instagram. She is a lover of blouses and challenges like this one!
Here are her secrets for hacking LA Chemise into an exceptional cropped blouse.
THE YEAR-ROUND SEWING HACK
Our accomplice
LA Chemise is a pattern made for me. I'm crazy about shirts and blouses, and this one particularly appeals to me for its loose fit, batwing sleeves, and especially the bevelled cut that allows one to play with striped fabrics.
This shirt is a statement piece which is quite important when you have a rather minimalist style. Hacking a pattern is always a challenge for me, a very exciting challenge! I chose to make a summer version by shortening the sleeves and making a cropped version. I wanted to make this shirt accessible to beginners by simplifying it as much as possible.
WHY IS THIS SHIRT SO CHARMING?
From XS to XL
A revamped Boyfriend shirt base with Atelier Brunette style.
A very loose fit for non-negotiable comfort.
THE COMPONENTS
Céline's style tips
Céline is 1,70 meters tall and she sewed this Hack in size S with our GAÏA DEEP CHARCOAL fabric.
What I find great about sewing is being able to personalize a pattern with 3-4 modifications; ultimately, you create a garment that reflects your style. This crop shirt is perfect for an urban look with jeans and sandals, but also more casual with wide-leg pants and trainers.
Let's go! I propose a hack that is decidedly simple, yet stylish.
EQUIPMENT
- 1,50 meters of fabric (140 cm width)
- 50 cm of interfacing
- 5 x 12 mm buttons
- Matching thread
ADVICE ON SEWING MATERIALS
Opt for fluid materials like our certified viscose and viscose blends with other fabrics such as cotton or linen. Printed or solid, the style is yours to own!
HER FAVORITE FABRIC
I chose to sew the GAÏA fabric in Deep Charcoal for its drape which gives an alluring, airy movement and also comfort.
The Deep Charcoal color enhances its cuts and creates a beautiful striped effect.
STEP BY STEP GUIDE
Difficulty level: Beginner Hackers Accepted
Céline proposes this hack based on LA Chemise Version B pattern. The modifications are very easy.
To sew this variant, we will slightly modify pieces 1, 2, 7, 10, and 11.
We remove the most complicated steps, namely all steps /2/, as well as steps /6/ and /7/.
Do not cut: Wrist slits (pieces 4) and 5, nor the collar (piece 8).
Sew the pieces exactly as when assembling LA Chemise for steps /2/, /4/, /5/, and /6.1/, shortening the following pattern pieces:
The sleeve length by 20 cm
(pieces 2 and 11)
The front and back length by 21 cm
(pieces 1 and 10)
The button placket length by 24 cm
(piece 7)
Recreate the cuff pattern by drawing a rectangle measuring 29 cm x 8 cm (piece 6)
Create ties that will serve as a belt, cut 3 strips with a 4 cm width on the straight grain and sew them as bias tape. Cut 2 x 50 cm ties and 1 tie measuring 1 meter.
/ 1 /
PREPARING THE DES PIECES
Cut the pattern pieces following the previously mentioned modifications.
Interface the cuffs (modified piece 6), the collar stand, and the button placket (modified piece 7).
Overlock the 4 sides of the front and back to create a slit for inserting the ties.
/ 2 /
SEWING THE LA CHEMISE BODY
Create a 6 cm long slit at the bottom of the shirt.
Press the seam open up to the slit.
Pin both sides and topstitch at 8 mm from the edge of the slit.
Hem the bottom of the shirt by 1.2 cm and topstitch 2 mm from the edge. Insert the ties into the casings.
Make anchor stitches in the middle and on the sides to prevent the ties from shifting.
/ 3 /
SEWING THE CUFFS
Fold the sleeve cuff (modified piece 6) right sides together along its height and sew. Fold it wrong sides together and press.
Make a gathering stitch at the bottom of the sleeve. Insert the cuff into the sleeve.
Pull on the threads to form the sleeve and distribute the gathers. Pin and sew in a circular manner, overlock, and press.
Next, sew steps /5/ and /6.1/ (the button placket and collar stand).
Now it's your turn to play!
Atelier Brunettes Team’s advice: Trust yourself, if in doubt, we're here for you!
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